What 21st Century makeup contains
Following on from Ancient times, the ingredients contained in products is a different kind of toxic.
In the last blog, I wanted to share a bit about the history of Santorini, Crete and the Minoan civilization, and shared the kinds of ingredients used by the Ancient Greek, Egyptians, Romans and Queen Elizabeth I. I must say that it seems QEI had the worst result in the end as she suffered the most from lead poisoning combined with pox and rotting teeth. There’s one way to encourage our kids to brush their teeth! Picking up where we left of …
From 1800-1900s, toxic lead and copper which was used for facial powder is replaced with Zinc Oxide. Another ingredient Ceruse, which also comes from white lead, was later declared poisonous. Health issues like muscle paralysis, facial tremors and death were thought to be caused by this. Queen Victoria regards make-up as ‘improper’ for everyone except for those in the theatre!
During the Edwardian times, the pressure for hostesses to appear youthful increases, resulting in a rise of cosmetic purchases. Beauty salons become secretly more popular, as many of the customers enter through back doors to hide the fact they need help to maintain their ‘youthful appearance’. Imagine that, hiding your appointments to the beauty parlour, so that others wouldn’t know you were getting help with your ageing skin!
In a previous Blog, I wrote about the horrible ingredients contained in a lot of modern-day products. You can click here to see the full details of that Blog: Pick Your Ingredients.
So let’s fast forward to what 21st Century makeup & skincare products contain.
• Detergents called P-phenylenediamine, 4-MMPD Sulphate, Diaminobenzene, Ammoniated mercury and Sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS/SLES) & Foaming agents should be avoided. Found in soaps, detergents, shampoos, mouthwash, hand cream, cleansers, hair dyes (Permanent & Semi Permanent) as well as toothpaste.The mucous membranes of the mouth is the main source of absorption, storing the detergents in the liver, heart, lungs and brain. The skin can become irritated, can cause hair loss, whilst prolonged exposure can cause skin damage.
• Solvents derived from Petroleum found in brake & hydraulic fluid like anti-freeze. Includes Propylene, Butylene & Glycol, Mineral oils & petrolatum. Used as a humectant, they penetrate the outer layers of the skin, leaving a film on the skin, trapping moisture, toxins & waste that would otherwise be eliminated through the skin.These ingredients are found in deodorant, shaving gel, conditioner, shampoo, toothpaste, baby wipes, lotions, cosmetics such as foundation creams, mascara, lipsticks & suntan lotion. These ingredients are odourless and colourless, are cheap and allow the ingredients to combine well. Side-effects include:
* Solvents can irritate the skin and may cause dermatitis & conjunctivitis. Ingestion may cause pulmonary oedema, brain damage, hypoglycaemia, intravascular haemolysis.
* respiratory & throat irritations, central nervous system depression, blood & kidney disorders.
• Bleaching Agents: Hydroquinone and Kojic Acid are whitening agents used to bleach the skin.
• Proyply-Alcohol is an antiseptic used in cosmetics, shampoos, shaving products, waterless hand cleansers, mouthwash (25-30%) and in the preparation of bottled water, carbonated drinks and decaffeinated coffee.In the mouthwash, it has been linked to mouth and throat cancers.
• Preservatives, Q15, Antiseptic, includes Parabens Includes Parabens (methyl-, propyl-, butyl- ethyl-) Proyply-Alcohol. These have also been found in carbonated drinks. Parabens are added to stop microbial growth and extend the shelf life of the products. Many Skincare Products contain Parabens, those with citrus seed may have been sprayed with parabens. They can be harmful if inhaled or swallowed, they can cause irritation of the skin, eyes and respiratory tract. It can cause allergic reactions on the skin, of which symptoms include itching, redness and pain. And it can affect hormones and have been found in Breast tumours.
• Body Acidity regulators like Ethanloamines used with preservatives like Diazolidinyl Urea. These are found in soaps, shampoos, bubble bath, lotions, cosmetics, laundry detergents.It can severely irritate body tissues, can cause dermatitis and may be corrosive to the eyes. It prevents bacterial growth, though it’s not effective against fungi. These are acidity regulators and used normally with other Ingredients like DEA Cocamide. Amines react with nitrosating agents to form nitrosamines, which are carcinogenic.
• Nanoparticles: include titanium dioxide & zinc oxide for sunscreen products. They are ultra-fine particles which possess certain properties due to their tiny size. This allows them to accumulated in the body, possibly by topical use. May trigger potentially harmful chemical reactions.
• Chemical blocks: may be absorbed by the skin and work by absorbing the UV light. This causes a chemical reaction in the molecule of block, which may release free radicals. The skin damage can cause photosensitivity and blockers known to do this include: octocrylene, octyl-methoxycinnamate (octinoxate), benzophenone-3, (oxybenzone) and benzophenone-4 (sulisobenzone). If these penetrate the skin before it absorbs the UV photon, then these free radicals are released into the skin.It can increase the risk of cancer and contributes to skin ageing.
• Synthetics like fragrances & colours, Talc & Toluene. Phthalates listed as Perfumes / Fragrances preserves synthetic scents. These are often not listed on the ingredients but are contained in health & beauty products like Nail polish, lacquers and soft plastics such as pet and infant chew toys. Toluene acts as an endocrine disruptor, potential carcinogen, may cause birth defects.Whilst Talc Is chemically similar to Asbestos. It is found in many baby products, including feminine powders, condom lubricants and cosmetics. As a feminine powder or spray, it can cause ovarian cancer. There are Over 200 Synthetic Fragrances used in Cosmetics. The label only has to state ‘Fragrance’ so you have no way of knowing which of the 200 are in your product. The fragrance can mask the product going off, provide no benefits, so best avoided. Adversely affects male sperm, increases testosterone and oestrogen, has been found in Breast Cancer.
• Preservative: Parabens, Benzoyl Peroxide, many of which are toxic and come from questionable sources. to see what kind of other products are included.
• UV Filters and Sunscreen Agents: Refer to a previous blog about the shocking ingredients contained in sunscreens: The Shocking News About Sunscreens. Ingredients include Avobenzone, Mexoryl, Oxybenzone (a hormone), Benzophenone, which are UV Filters that are meant to block or absorb UVA rays.Titanium Dioxide helps block both UVA and UVB. This is enough to make you feel sick just reading to this point.
But wait, there’s some fabulous ingredients derived from plants, herbs, and the ground which are amazing too, once we pass the Gallery of Pictures: Edwardian Make-up in 1908; Household Products; Chemical Lab, Mixed Herbs.
Always check that the source is plant-based.
• Essential Oils, including Lavender, Frankincense, Cypress, Sweet Orange, Myrrh, Rose, Palmarosa, Tea Tree, Sandalwood & Jasmine
• Butters like Cocoa & Shea Butter, with Vegetable Oils like Avocado, Jojoba, Castor & Wheatgerm Oils. These are known as Emollients which help calm, soothe and heal the skin.
* Castor Oil: is a thicker vegetable oil, which acts as a barrier, emollient and lubricant, found mainly in lipsticks and moisturisers.
* Jojoba Oil: is also very similar to skin pH and human sebum, being able to effectively penetrate the skin. It moisturises and naturally renews cells.
* Avocado Oil: is rich in vitamins, is a great skin conditioner, moisturiser and is absorbed easily by the skin.
• Soothing Agents: that help calm, soothe and heal the skin. These can include a variety of ingredients.
* Aloe Vera has the same pH as skin, is extremely protective and soothing as well as being a natural oxygenator, allowing oxygen to be drawn and held to the skin.It is also a natural astringent, and its best form is directly from the plant.
* Allantoin: also has soothing healing agents and calming properties.
* Camphor: alleviates itching, irritation, redness and acts as a cooling agent.
* Olive Oil: contains antioxidants called secoiridoids and these activate gene signatures that assist anti-aging and reduced cellular stress, as mentioned in the previous newslettter.
• Other Emollients, Emulsifiers & Surfactants: include:
* Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth 20, Cetearyl Alcohol these emollient or lubricants allow for the emulsifying process of mixing oil and water phases of skincare making, which are also known as a binding Agent.
* Isopropyl Isostearate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Isopropyl Myristate form a film on the skin when applied, allowing for easily absorption. They are contained in pre-shaving, after-shaving, shampoos, bath oils, deodorants, antiperspirants, creams and lotions.
* Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: works as a barrier agent, lubricant and solvent found in foundations.
* Emulsifier & Surfactants include: Glyceryl Oleate, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Cocoate (surfactant), Glyceryl Stearate SE (pearlizing/opacifier), otherwise known as a binding Agent. These ingredients allow for the emulsifying process of mixing oil and water phases of skincare making, whilst the surfactant gives the foaming and cleansing aspect. Pearlizing allows products like shampoo to be a pearl type colour instead of transparent, whilst opacifiers are added to transparent cosmetics to make them more impervious to visible light.
• Waxes: sourced from a variety of natural sources, these act as a barrier agent or binder.These include:
* Beeswax: can be used to blend oil with water components, and is a great barrier to protect the skin, found in skincare and make-up.
* Candellila & Carnauba Wax: found in lipsticks, creams, deodorant sticks and hair removal products, and used as a binder as well as barrier agent.
* Kaolin Wax: is found in masks for oily / combination skin types, and is an oil absorbing powder that gives not only colour, but slip.
• Himalayan Salts, course sugar, Herbs, clay, mud, flowers, leaves, roots, nuts, seeds, beeswax, milk, honey, yoghurt & natural fats.
• Water: Found in many products as the basis of the formulations.It should be distilled, deionized or purified water.
• Vitamins: A (Retinol, or Retinyl Palmitate), C (Ascorbic Acid, an antioxidant and preservative), E (Tocopherol, an antioxidant which can prevent UV damage) & B (Pathenol, a humectant – is what helps retain moisture).
• Antioxidants: Butylated Hydroxy Toluene (BHT) and Resveratrol, which is found in seeds, stems and leaves of grape vines. This protective antibiotic is produced when the plant is under stress, whether caused by drought, ultraviolet irradiation, inflammation or fungal attack. Other antioxidants are Vitamin C and E.
• Alpha Hydroxy Acids: citric, glycolic and lactic acid assist with exfoliating the layers of the skin, improving the texture and allowing the absorption of active ingredients, reducing wrinkles and restoring moisture.These are typically found in anti-aging skincare.
• Salicylic Acid: (beta hydroxy acid) helps reduce oiliness, acne and the appearance of fine lines, found in chemical peels.
• Glycerine: is also a humectant, which helps keep moisture and hydrate the skin, providing a barrier.
• Hyaluronic Acid: can hold water in the skin and is commonly used for deep hydration in anti-aging products.
• Lecithin: is a water attracting agent that allows for easy spreading, hydration and improves the texture of the skin.
• Silicones: Cyclomethicone & Dimethicone are molecules which gives the smooth texture, slip & glide factor to cosmetic products without blocking pores. These are adding widely in hair styling, skincare and make-up products.
• Lanolin Derivatives: from dewaxed lanolin is used in skin moisturisers, minimising the stickiness of creams and lotions. The Lanolin alcohol however, is used to thicken shampoos and bath gels, giving the cosmetic products a high gloss and creamy texture. Some are reacting to lanolin in products.
• Caffeine: believe it or not, alleviates puffiness under the eyes.
Gallery – Different Ingredients include Niaouli Plant, Coloured Clays, All-Natural Essentially Lili Products at Heraklion, Flowers of Helichrysum italicum, otherswise known as Immortelle Essential Oil.
We have definitely come a long way from Ancient times, in both good and bad ways. Whilst the makeup cosmetics of the past included minerals and plants which enhanced their beauty, but gave the impression of nobility, purity, wealth and stature, they were unknowingly poisoning themselves with items like lead. Despite the evolution of the ages from ancient times, we have been applying cosmetic products and treatments to maintain our youthful appearance. The difference is that today’s cosmetics contain far more harmful ingredients in their mass production, allowing products to be stored for years, to be kept in direct sunlight in the shop-front windows and have a uniform consistency when applied to the skin. These toxins are absorbed by our cells and distributed throughout our body causing more harm which is extremely scary.
Cosmetics is a multi-billion-dollar industry that appeals to creating an illusion of perfection, of being better than what we already are, of changing what we don’t like about ourselves, covering it up or using applications to enhance our overall look. Then we add modern technology and social media which helps to constantly push us to manipulate our real image. Whether it’s through photo-shop, airbrushing, beauty apps, image enhancers or other gadgets, some of us are using these to create or enhance our moods, change our colour, improve our shape and size to perfect this unrealistic image that we want the others to see, hiding what’s real and true.
But everyone is doing it, from movie stars, singers and influencers, those that are revealing too much, wearing heaps of make-up and portraying this almost exaggerated vision of what they regard as ‘beautiful’. Will we ever be comfortable enough in our own skin to embrace our beauty from within? Will we constantly make changes to improve or findg alternative solutions instead? How do we encourage each other, especially our youth to ‘Love Their Own Skin?
What I love is helping you find your inner beauty & confidence with simple self-love which starts by taking care of yourself first. Whether it’s watching what & how much you eat, what you’re applying to your skin, being aware of the ingredients contained in the products that you’re using and making lifestyle changes to improve your overall health. This is the beginning of a beautiful journey with yourself, loving who you are and Being Your Own Kind of Beautiful
- What 21st Century makeup contains
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About Lili & Essentially Lili – My Health Studies include from 2016-2019 Diplomas in Aromatherapy, Holistic Skincare Products, Clinical Nutrition, Stress Management, Reflexology, Holistic Pain Management, Member of International College of Holistic Medicine. In Progress is studying Clinical Nutrition for Over 50s.
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Check out the Gallery of Pictures – Ingredients contained in 21st Century Essentially LIli Magic Bundle of products, Essential Oils, Lavender batches from Ticino, and Cool Eyes.